I know, I know, I know...I have not been maintaining this very well since July. As many of you know, I had an all too brief trip home in August and now it is nearly two months since I left Nebraska again. Since departing Omaha that rushed morning in August, many things have changed for me. Some expected, some unexpected.
Since returning to Amman, I have moved into a new apartment with two other Fulbright fellows, this was a welcome and planned move as it saves me money and gives me some constant company. The Great, Single-living Experiment is over and I have decided I am much too social to fester alone in my own apartment. In this new place I still have my own bedroom and bathroom, the apartment is bigger in general and so is the kitchen. We have an automatic washer and a balcony...these are definite perks. Having said that, my old apartment in Jabel Webdeh is still available if anyone would like a well-maintained single bedroom, single bathroom place in that wonderful neighborhood. Alice, the landlady, and her family are caring and they present a wonderful resource for anyone new to Jordan. I am greatly indebted to them for helping me get some firm footing here in Jordan.
I am no longer dating Claudia, as we both realized that we were both in very different stages in our lives and the physical and emotional distance between was too much. This was a tough decision to arrive at, but it was probably for the best. I am coming to terms with not having her be an active part of my life, but we do communicate occasionally via Skype or e-mail and I get the impression that she is doing well and staying busy, as am I.
Part of what is keeping me busy is the fact that I have recently switched my research base from Prince Hamza Hospital in north Amman to Al-Bashir Hospital, which is more centrally located in the eastern part of the city, specifically the Palestinian neighborhood of Wahedat. Al-Bashir houses the National Institute of Forensic Medicine here in Jordan, under the inspired direction of Dr. Mu'men Hadidi. This forensic department has many more doctors than Hamza and also receives considerably more autopsy cases. It is also from this locale that the "forensic ambulance" responds to forensic death scenes. I am working on becoming part of that rotation, so that I can respond and observe procedure at the initial point of contact between this office and the population it serves. I am also hoping to get some exposure to the Jordanian crime laboratories as well. Needless to say, my time here has been an invaluable change that will contribute greatly to my overall understanding of the forensic system in Jordan and to my research.
Additionally, I opted to join Fitness First as a good way to occupy my time as well as keep me active and entertained. This gym has an Olympic-sized pool, an indoor track, a sauna and steamroom, squash courts, and many more amenities. One of my roommates and several of my other friends are members here and so there are plenty of reasons to go and people to exercise with. It was because this gym and my roommate, Rob, that I opted to participate in this last weekend's Amman International Marathon (AIM). No I did not run the marathon, but participated (along with 1000s of others) in the 10K portion of the race. I was running with Rob one day at the gym, as he was preparing to run the 10K, and at the conclusion of the run (about 5 miles) he told me that he was surprised at the pace I was able to maintain and the endurance I seemed to possess (actually so was I!), so he encouraged me to sign up for the 10K. I brushed him off, remembering all too well hating the 1200 meter races (and Mr. Mastilar)I was required to run in Jr. High and the relief that came knowing I would never have to run a long distance again for sport after graduating high school. So was I really considering actually paying money to join a 10K (~6.25 mile) race? Well, this was about two weeks before the AIM and so I continued to run at the gym and test myself to see if I could really endure running that distance and do so at a respectable rate. Finally, knowing that both of my roommates and a couple other friends of mine were participating in the 10K, I opted to sign up as well. I finished the 10K in 46 minutes and 39 secs, which was a little over the 45 minute mark I had arbitrarily set for myself, but definitely a respectable rate of about 7.5 minutes/mile. I don't where this comes from, as I distinctly recall struggling in high school football (when I was at least 15 lbs lighter) to finish one mile in under 8 minutes. At any rate, it was a fun experience and I am actually encouraged to do more. Now people are talking about the Aqaba Marathon in early December, but I don't think there is a 10K which would mean the shortest option is the half marathon, which is terrifyingly more than double this last weekend's effort...but for some reason I am considering it.
In addition to my research and exercise regimen, I have also resumed the second half of my German courses at the Goethe Institute. Despite no longer having a German girlfriend, I still enjoy the language and I still enjoy the friendship of many other Germans, plus...I already paid for it...so ;) . I am also trying to keep up my Arabic through daily conversations with doctors at the hospital, in my frequent interactions with taxi drivers, and through some independent readings. So as you can tell, I am keeping myself responsibly occupied. Of course this is all on top of the high social standards I keep for myself. At the beginning of October, I and some friends organized another Pub-crawl, but this one was much more ambitious as it spanned through 5 different pubs, and 3 different neighborhoods. I think our group that eventually grew to about 18-20 people by the end, delighted more than a few proprietors and entertained many people (including ourselves) on the way. As we moved from locale to locale, we seemed to snowball and by the end we had three random guys that we had met at Hashem's (Amman's famous Falafel restaurant in the downtown) that were from Kentucky, in the midst of a several week trip through the Middle East. They seemed thoroughly pleased that we invited them to join us. I think I can say that Amman Pub-Crawl II: Across the Valley was a big success. Which of course leads me to ruminate on the possibilities of the next one.
This pub crawl, somewhat irreverently, came on the heals of the Holy Month of Ramadan, which began at the end of August and concluded around September 22. During which it is illegal for anyone to consume any food (including smoking cigarettes) or drink in public during daylight hours, and it is illegal throughout the month to sell alcohol with exception to 5-star hotels and restaurants that are typically thought to serve a majority Western, non-Muslim clientele. An important distinction is that a Muslim in good-standing will abstain from all food or drink whether in public or private, but as a non-Muslim I generally ate within the comfort of my own home as I wanted, provided I had food to eat. It was very interesting to see the whole community transformed and come to a virtual standstill during the daylight hours as business hours were reduced and most restaurants were closed, but suddenly spring back to life at the sunset call to prayer called افطار (Iftar - literally, to break one's fast) that signals the end of the day's fasting. Following Ramadan, a week-long holiday called عيد الفطر (Eid-al-Fitar - the celebration of breaking fast) marked the end of the holy month and signified a return to business as usual.
So in a rough sense that has been my experience since I have returned to Amman. I guess I am glad I have brought back to speed anyone who still diligently checks this blog for updates...thanks for not losing faith or interest.
While I was back home, I was actually pleasantly surprised at the feedback I was receiving in terms of the number of people reading, but I guess that is deceptive to me because many of you aren't official followers or comment-leavers, so I am not really sure how to many people I am actually communicating. No offense to my consistent readers who may be pleased with the current format of the blog in which I basically recount my experiences here (which admittedly was my original intention), but my schedule and subject matter don't vary enough to merit constant reflection upon them. So, with your permission, I would like to slightly alter my focus from my rote repetition of my day to day activities (although I am sure they will find their way into the occasional entry) and start down a more contemplative and reflexive path that will spring from my observations on culture and life here in Jordan. Please join me!
Thanks for Reading,
CtO
Monday, October 19, 2009
Monday, July 20, 2009
Mein Name ist...
As you can tell from that flawlessly executed subject line, my acquisition of the German language is off like BMW 300 racing speeds. Ok, that may be a bit of an exaggeration, but I have had about a week and a half of German lessons at the Goethe Institute in Amman and I think it is going well. Granted I am only in the early stages, but it is amazing how much more accessible a language that essentially utilizes the same alphabet as one's native tongue can be. All of our instruction has been in German and I think that gives me an advantage (over the other students) as I have a little bit of knowledge about the language and then some of it I can intuit from English, but there are some people in the class who seem to be completely lost. I guess the true test of my German skills will be when I get the opportunity to spend some time in Germany next month. You can be sure that I am looking forward to the opportunity to use my new language skills, as well as explore the country, with my girlfriend Claudia who I haven't seen since March. Ja, ich bin sehr gluecklich!
I am also very happy to be coming home in the next month to see family and friends whom I haven't seen in an even longer time. During that time, it will be my honor to be a groomsman in my good friend Carsten's wedding to a wonderful young lady, Katie. Needless to say, next month will be a busy and exciting month for me, but don't worry about me...I think I'll be able to handle it! ;)
Other than Goethe and German, my time has been occupied by my continuing efforts to learn the Palestinian form of Dubka. Our practices have become more intense and have proven to be a very thorough cardiovascular workout, with practice generally lasting 2 hours or more and all of us stinky and sweaty. We usually have at least 3 practices a week. Haneen, our instructor, has been blessed with both an incredible amount of talent and patience and she has become a good friend to all of us curious, though easily-distracred, American shabab. We generally follow at least one practice a week with a trip to San'a, an extremely cheap Yemeni restaurant near the North gate of the University of Jordan. The delicious food is served quickly, mezza-style with large, round, piping hot flat-bread provided as one's only eating utensil. We often order several meat and chicken dishes, one extremely tasty bean dish, and when the food comes...its a free for all; there is something simple, beautiful, and carnal about this restaurants and it makes it one of my favorites in Amman. I highly recommend this restaurant for anyone who lives in Amman, and if you ever come for a visit...I'll take you and I'll pay; it's that good...and cheap!
Of course, in addition to all my extracurricular activities, the bulk of my time is spent at Prince Hamza Hospital (Moostashfa al emir Hamzah(مستشفى العمير همزة)) in the Forensic Medicine Department (qism at-tubb as-shr3i' (قسم الطًبَ الشًرعي)). *(The Arabic should be right, but please don't beat me up about the transliterations)* If there are any autopsies to be conducted, they generally commence about 9 AM and I observe and participate, ask questions, and just try to be as involved in the process as allowed. It has been very interesting thus far, and a welcome opportunity to review much of the Forensic Pathology information that I learned in the first year of my grad program. While cab fare from my place of residence to the hospital is at the higher end of possible cab rides in Amman, I do feel like I am getting the opportunity to drink my fare's worth in Turkish Coffee and Tea at the hospital. It's crazy, the doctors drink coffee and tea and smoke cigarettes all day, but never have I seen one of them eating...needless to say, I have taken to bringing some of my own food to help me make it through the day. I have been trying to take advantage of some free time at the hospital to read and ask questions about the Forensic and legal system in Jordan and common, cultural death practices, as well as to read and take notes from Spitz and Fisher's "Medicolegal Investigation of Death"; a massive textbook that I purchased for this research, and a book that is one of the most authoritative texts on Forensic Pathology today. It is an invaluable resource and have found myself (and the doctors here) consistently referring to its pages. I have yet to be invited to a crime scene, but I am certain that it will happen in due time. A majority of cases we have investigated are related to traffic accidents, but we have had some suspicious and homicidal deaths come through the department doors. As you can tell from my lengthy, albeit somewhat nerdy, discourse about my research and my textbooks, I am thoroughly enjoying this part of the grant. In a sense, I think I have had an opportunity to rediscover all that is appealing to me about forensic investigation and I do look forward to an actual career in the field someday....someday, Mom and Dad!
This Thursday is the beginning of the Distant Heat Music Festival in the Wadi Rum Desert and then the next day at Jordan's "first and only port city", Aqaba! It should be a fantastically festive affair, with DJ Armin van Buuren lighting up night sky. It will be my first trip to Wadi Rum and Aqaba this year for simply entertainment (the astute, constant reader will recall I traversed through Aqaba en-route to and from Egypt last month), and I am looking forward to both the desert nightscape and the sun and fun of the beach on Friday! It seems a sizable group of my friends are going and expectations of awesomeness abound. I will let you know if said expectations are fulfilled so stayed tuned...
Let me hear your thoughts, or just let me know you are alive and kicking...and reading! ;)
Thanks for reading!
I am also very happy to be coming home in the next month to see family and friends whom I haven't seen in an even longer time. During that time, it will be my honor to be a groomsman in my good friend Carsten's wedding to a wonderful young lady, Katie. Needless to say, next month will be a busy and exciting month for me, but don't worry about me...I think I'll be able to handle it! ;)
Other than Goethe and German, my time has been occupied by my continuing efforts to learn the Palestinian form of Dubka. Our practices have become more intense and have proven to be a very thorough cardiovascular workout, with practice generally lasting 2 hours or more and all of us stinky and sweaty. We usually have at least 3 practices a week. Haneen, our instructor, has been blessed with both an incredible amount of talent and patience and she has become a good friend to all of us curious, though easily-distracred, American shabab. We generally follow at least one practice a week with a trip to San'a, an extremely cheap Yemeni restaurant near the North gate of the University of Jordan. The delicious food is served quickly, mezza-style with large, round, piping hot flat-bread provided as one's only eating utensil. We often order several meat and chicken dishes, one extremely tasty bean dish, and when the food comes...its a free for all; there is something simple, beautiful, and carnal about this restaurants and it makes it one of my favorites in Amman. I highly recommend this restaurant for anyone who lives in Amman, and if you ever come for a visit...I'll take you and I'll pay; it's that good...and cheap!
Of course, in addition to all my extracurricular activities, the bulk of my time is spent at Prince Hamza Hospital (Moostashfa al emir Hamzah(مستشفى العمير همزة)) in the Forensic Medicine Department (qism at-tubb as-shr3i' (قسم الطًبَ الشًرعي)). *(The Arabic should be right, but please don't beat me up about the transliterations)* If there are any autopsies to be conducted, they generally commence about 9 AM and I observe and participate, ask questions, and just try to be as involved in the process as allowed. It has been very interesting thus far, and a welcome opportunity to review much of the Forensic Pathology information that I learned in the first year of my grad program. While cab fare from my place of residence to the hospital is at the higher end of possible cab rides in Amman, I do feel like I am getting the opportunity to drink my fare's worth in Turkish Coffee and Tea at the hospital. It's crazy, the doctors drink coffee and tea and smoke cigarettes all day, but never have I seen one of them eating...needless to say, I have taken to bringing some of my own food to help me make it through the day. I have been trying to take advantage of some free time at the hospital to read and ask questions about the Forensic and legal system in Jordan and common, cultural death practices, as well as to read and take notes from Spitz and Fisher's "Medicolegal Investigation of Death"; a massive textbook that I purchased for this research, and a book that is one of the most authoritative texts on Forensic Pathology today. It is an invaluable resource and have found myself (and the doctors here) consistently referring to its pages. I have yet to be invited to a crime scene, but I am certain that it will happen in due time. A majority of cases we have investigated are related to traffic accidents, but we have had some suspicious and homicidal deaths come through the department doors. As you can tell from my lengthy, albeit somewhat nerdy, discourse about my research and my textbooks, I am thoroughly enjoying this part of the grant. In a sense, I think I have had an opportunity to rediscover all that is appealing to me about forensic investigation and I do look forward to an actual career in the field someday....someday, Mom and Dad!
This Thursday is the beginning of the Distant Heat Music Festival in the Wadi Rum Desert and then the next day at Jordan's "first and only port city", Aqaba! It should be a fantastically festive affair, with DJ Armin van Buuren lighting up night sky. It will be my first trip to Wadi Rum and Aqaba this year for simply entertainment (the astute, constant reader will recall I traversed through Aqaba en-route to and from Egypt last month), and I am looking forward to both the desert nightscape and the sun and fun of the beach on Friday! It seems a sizable group of my friends are going and expectations of awesomeness abound. I will let you know if said expectations are fulfilled so stayed tuned...
Let me hear your thoughts, or just let me know you are alive and kicking...and reading! ;)
Thanks for reading!
Friday, July 10, 2009
Distant Heat tickets purchased!
Hey everybody, how is it going? Things are going fairly well here in Amman and I really don't have too much to report. This week I have kept myself fairly occupied with my research and I am learning quite a bit about the forensic process, here in Jordan, and in general. It is also a great place for me to use my Arabic as the doctors converse with each other, and frequently with me, in Arabic, but are also capable of explaining most things in English as well, if I don't understand. Additionally, the other employees in the department (i.e. technicians, custodians) don't know English that well, and so I must use Arabic to communicate with them. That has proven an interesting and welcomed challenge. I have taken to carrying my Oxford Word Power English-Arabic Dictionary with me to the hospital and it has time and again proven a valuable tool.
I am still working out an arrangement that may allow me to go to crime scenes with the "forensic ambulance" when they get called out (only about 3-4 times a week, which is really a testament to the overall safety of this city and country!). Apparently, one of the forensic pathologists must meet the ambulance at the crime scene, so I am trying to arrange it so that when they "get the call" that I do as well...the problem being that I have actually only met one of the pathologists in the rotation, Dr. Shahdi, because the others are located at Bashir Hospital, where the National Institute of Forensic Medicine (NIFM)is housed. As NIFM is housed there I am trying to arrange it so that I may be able go there and observe as well. It is my understanding that Bashir, though an older, smaller facility, conducts far more autopsies annually than does Emir Hamzah. The mooshkala (problem) being that there is another forensic researcher (an actual doctor I think) based out of Bashir and so I don't want to step on anyone's toes. We shall see...
In other news, my friend Geoff has moved into my apartment for the last two months of his time here in Jordan. His last lease ended at the end of June and he was left alone in a three bedroom apartment, so rather than renew his lease and find new roommates, he moved into my place. He really doesn't have an adequate place to sleep other than the couch or a small storage room I had lined the floor with blankets and mattress pads, which he calls "the Cave" or "Osama bin Laden's dream". Needless to say, he sleeps most nights on the couch. Otherwise, the apartment is more than large enough to accommodate the both of us. My schedule requires me to leave early in the morning and I usually return mid to late afternoon, and Geoff has class from 1-5, five days a week...so our schedules usually only overlap during the evenings and on the weekends, but having said that I am enjoying having a roommate again and the ability to constantly interact with another person. Living alone has it's merits, but it is also an acquired skill...that I guess I will have to continue to develop after Geoff departs.
On Sunday, Geoff and I purchased tickets for "Distant Heat", which is a two-day music festival/party held in the Wadi Rum desert and then on the beaches of Aqaba at the end of July. I believe this is the 5th year the festival has been held, but if you want a better picture of the event and it's history go to the event website: (www.distantheat.com) We are very much looking forward to the experience, as it will be our last big hurrah before we part ways in August.
Oh yeah, next week I start taking German lessons at the Goethe Institute near 3rd Circle in Jebel Amman. So I will keep you updated on the progress of all of my language acquisition. I am excited to start learning this language which is immediately more accessible to me, as a native English speaker, but equally daunting in terms of grammar and sentence structure as Arabic. My intention is to keep on with private Arabic lessons, in addition to my time at the hospital, in order to prevent my Arabic from stagnating.
So those are the major developments this week! Look forward to your comments and hope all is well, wherever you are reading this!
Thanks for reading,
CtO
I am still working out an arrangement that may allow me to go to crime scenes with the "forensic ambulance" when they get called out (only about 3-4 times a week, which is really a testament to the overall safety of this city and country!). Apparently, one of the forensic pathologists must meet the ambulance at the crime scene, so I am trying to arrange it so that when they "get the call" that I do as well...the problem being that I have actually only met one of the pathologists in the rotation, Dr. Shahdi, because the others are located at Bashir Hospital, where the National Institute of Forensic Medicine (NIFM)is housed. As NIFM is housed there I am trying to arrange it so that I may be able go there and observe as well. It is my understanding that Bashir, though an older, smaller facility, conducts far more autopsies annually than does Emir Hamzah. The mooshkala (problem) being that there is another forensic researcher (an actual doctor I think) based out of Bashir and so I don't want to step on anyone's toes. We shall see...
In other news, my friend Geoff has moved into my apartment for the last two months of his time here in Jordan. His last lease ended at the end of June and he was left alone in a three bedroom apartment, so rather than renew his lease and find new roommates, he moved into my place. He really doesn't have an adequate place to sleep other than the couch or a small storage room I had lined the floor with blankets and mattress pads, which he calls "the Cave" or "Osama bin Laden's dream". Needless to say, he sleeps most nights on the couch. Otherwise, the apartment is more than large enough to accommodate the both of us. My schedule requires me to leave early in the morning and I usually return mid to late afternoon, and Geoff has class from 1-5, five days a week...so our schedules usually only overlap during the evenings and on the weekends, but having said that I am enjoying having a roommate again and the ability to constantly interact with another person. Living alone has it's merits, but it is also an acquired skill...that I guess I will have to continue to develop after Geoff departs.
On Sunday, Geoff and I purchased tickets for "Distant Heat", which is a two-day music festival/party held in the Wadi Rum desert and then on the beaches of Aqaba at the end of July. I believe this is the 5th year the festival has been held, but if you want a better picture of the event and it's history go to the event website: (www.distantheat.com) We are very much looking forward to the experience, as it will be our last big hurrah before we part ways in August.
Oh yeah, next week I start taking German lessons at the Goethe Institute near 3rd Circle in Jebel Amman. So I will keep you updated on the progress of all of my language acquisition. I am excited to start learning this language which is immediately more accessible to me, as a native English speaker, but equally daunting in terms of grammar and sentence structure as Arabic. My intention is to keep on with private Arabic lessons, in addition to my time at the hospital, in order to prevent my Arabic from stagnating.
So those are the major developments this week! Look forward to your comments and hope all is well, wherever you are reading this!
Thanks for reading,
CtO
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Apparently a busy month...
Thanks to all of you have had the patience to enjoy my blog and the intermittent pace at which I release it. A lot happened in June, which made it one of the fastest months to pass during the duration of my stay in Jordan. Unfortunately, as so much has transpired since I last blogged, in the interest of everyone's time and sanity, I am going to lay out my comings and goings in a much abridged fashion. I encourage people to ask questions about any holes I may leave, or simply to inquire about something that I have said that intrigues them. Having said that...let's look at June:
June 6, 2009: Attended the wedding of former classmate Veronica to her Jordanian boyfriend Abdullah. It was interesting as it is customary in Islamic culture for the men and women to celebrate the wedding in separate parties. When Geoff and I entered the reception hall and heard music booming from the top floor you can imagine our disappointment to find that that was the women's party and that all the men were in the basement drinking coffee. Geoff and I made awkward conversation with Abdullah's friends and relatives, until much later in the evening when the two parties merged. At which point there was enough dancing and celebrating for all to enjoy, albeit some somewhat later than others.
June 10, 2009: I spent 6 hours taking my Qasid final. However my efforts were rewarded with a 90% on the exam. I felt happy (and admittedly hungry) at the conclusion of the exam. It was a good way to leave Qasid, but I wish that I have some more time and money to devote the program in the future, as I think it is truly quality program that over time would do remarkable things for my Arabic.
June 12, 2009: I went on a water and canyoning hike in the Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve. If you think Jordan is a barren desert this will make you think again. This hike normally lasts about 4 hours and consists of walking along a gentle stream rolling out of the Wadi Mujib gorge towards the Dead Sea, but the further upstream you go the more intense it becomes with very deep pools of water, rushing rapids, and steep canyon walls that make you swim, climb, and sweat with everything you have. The hike goes all the way up to the base of two waterfalls and then one is forced to go back the way you came. It was invigorating and though I was in a bigger group (about 40 people) and it took us considerably longer, I had a great time.
June 13, 2009: I organized a small pub crawl in my neighborhood for a group of friends on this evening. Having lived in Jebel Weibdeh for now 6 months, I have scouted out all the local "dens of iniquity" and have some favorites. Piccadilly Pub, for example sells a relatively cheap bottle of Guinness (4 JD) which is rarity in Jordan. Negresco, located at the bottom of the Select Hotel, has a "buy one, get the second one free" happy hour from 6-8. Jordango , on Paris Circle, has a 50% off happy hour special from 7-9. Thus, the appeal of overlapping happy hours in close proximity was the impetus for the impromptu pub crawl. While we had some scheduling issues, the crawl was well attended and an overall success.
June 14-21, 2009: I went to Egypt. (While I would like to elaborate it would just be too taxing for all involved, so I am going to briefly outline the trip and locales...any more specifics you just have to ask!) A Qasid classmate and fellow fulbrighter, Chrissie couldn't join her friends on a hiking trip through Syria and Lebanon...for what we could say were certain "passport issues", therefore when she called me and asked me to join her on an impromptu trip overland trip to the land of the Pharoahs...I couldn't refuse. We left (much too early (5 AM) in the morning) for Aqaba, Jordan on June 14, and took the ferry across the Red Sea to Nuweiba, Egypt. From Nuweiba we travelled to St. Katherine's Monastery at the base of Mt. Sinai, arriving there at around 8:30 PM, before climbing Mt. Sinai in the pitch dark so that we were able to sleep on top of the mountain and await the sunrise. The sunrise over the Sinai horizon was remarkable at 5 AM the next day. Following sunrise, we descended the mountain and visited the monastery (home of the "burning bush", before learning the only bus to Cairo leaves at the wholly inconvenient time of 6 AM, each morning. Eventually we ended up in Cairo....eventually. We spent the night at Lially Hostel in Midan Talat Harab in the middle of Cairo, but as it turns out we ran into an Egyptian Fulbrighter (that I had met the previous month at the Amman conference) night at a restaurant and he invited us to stay at his lavish and spacious abode in the Zamalak region of Cairo. (11th story penthouse, on the Nile, overlooking the city - we really lucked out...thanks again, Khalil!)Khalil, also had a friend visiting him named Jen and as Khalil was really busy finishing up his studies at American University in Cairo, she joined us in many of our adventures. Major locations visited included: the Royal Mummy room and King Tut exhibits at the Egypt Museum, the Pyramids and Sphinx of Giza. The three of us journeyed a night via train to Luxor, where we visited many more tombs and temples and even took a boat ride to mythical "Banana Island". We then took the night train back to Cairo, and spent one more day there before getting a bus back to Nuweiba and then eventually Aqaba and Amman. Like I said this is a much abridged version of events and every little memory has a story, so if you would like to hear more, please let me know...preferably in person.
June 23-25, 2009: I spent these days traveling around the less popular, though equally interesting sites of Jordan with my friend Keegan and his newly-arrived brother Owen, who will be living in Amman for the whole of the summer. Also joining us on occasion was Becky, Elizabeth's - Keegan's girlfriend - younger sister, who also will be living in Amman for the summer. We visited places like the ruins of Umm al-Jimal, a Roman community constructed from dark basalt stones, the ruins of what is believed to be the town of Sodom (of Biblical infamy) and the prophet Lot's cave, where he was seduced by his daughters (listen... I don't write this stuff), Herod's palace where he was served John the Baptist's head on a plate, the worlds oldest mosaic map found in Madaba, the tomb of the Prophet Moses on Mt. Nebo, etc. We saw quite a few fascinating things nestled away in this ancient and storied landscape.
June 26, 2009: I returned to the Wadi Mujib nature reserve for more...hours more. This Fulbright organized trip (thanks to the efforts of Dennis and Jawwad) was the longest possible trip into the reserve that included an hour of dry, hot, uphill hiking before we made it to any of the water. We then hiked along the water-gorged canyons for a couple hours, took a slight lunch break and waded back into the water until we came to the waterfall again...however, this time it was different. We were on top of the waterfall and had to repel down it to continue on our way to the mouth of the gorge. This trip had all the thrills and the exhaustion of the previous Mujib excursion, but climbing down a waterfall made this experience that much cooler. I plan to do the Wadi Mujib several more times before I leave Jordan...and perhaps some other hiking/climbing as well, because there is so much undisturbed nature in this country.
June 28 - July 3, 2009: I started doing my research! I am establishing a routine that has me going to Emir Hashem Hospital every morning and reporting to the Forensic Medicine department. I want to get a holistic overview of the process of forensic investigation in Jordan, and the doctors at the hospital are really helping me put that picture together. Also during this week, I started taking a traditional Arab dance, the dubka, class. The classes are two hours in length and are a true workout, replete with jumping, kicking, lunging, and clapping. Its a lot of fun, but there are a lot of steps and it can get confusing...this is a common dance frequently seen at weddings here, but I am not sure how it will go over in American weddings. Only one way to tell...right?
July 4, 2009: This was actually the second 4th of July I have spent in Amman, Jordan. The first, in 2006, was spent at a semi-formal party at the US Embassy. This year, I spent the afternoon at my dubka instructor's family farm outside of Amman, eating and swimming. Then I had dubka class, followed by a shower (a social necessity after class) and then a rip-roaring 4th of July party at my friends Elizabeth and Keegan's lovely home. We had fireworks, grilling, drinks, games, and music...it was truly an American party...apparently Keegan read the "Declaration of Independence" (a personal tradition of his) at some point during the night, but I missed that. Happy 233rd Birthday America!!!
So that's the last month in a nutshell. Any questions? I am growing excited for the opportunity to come home in less than 30 days and personally share with all of you some of the stories of my life and experiences here in Amman. I plan to be in Nebraska for the first half of August. It has been a rather rapid-fire first 6 months and I am very much looking forward to see as many of you as I can in the couple weeks I am home.
Thanks for the comments, please keep them coming, and I will be more diligent about responding them. I hope you all continue to enjoy the blog!
Thanks for reading!
June 6, 2009: Attended the wedding of former classmate Veronica to her Jordanian boyfriend Abdullah. It was interesting as it is customary in Islamic culture for the men and women to celebrate the wedding in separate parties. When Geoff and I entered the reception hall and heard music booming from the top floor you can imagine our disappointment to find that that was the women's party and that all the men were in the basement drinking coffee. Geoff and I made awkward conversation with Abdullah's friends and relatives, until much later in the evening when the two parties merged. At which point there was enough dancing and celebrating for all to enjoy, albeit some somewhat later than others.
June 10, 2009: I spent 6 hours taking my Qasid final. However my efforts were rewarded with a 90% on the exam. I felt happy (and admittedly hungry) at the conclusion of the exam. It was a good way to leave Qasid, but I wish that I have some more time and money to devote the program in the future, as I think it is truly quality program that over time would do remarkable things for my Arabic.
June 12, 2009: I went on a water and canyoning hike in the Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve. If you think Jordan is a barren desert this will make you think again. This hike normally lasts about 4 hours and consists of walking along a gentle stream rolling out of the Wadi Mujib gorge towards the Dead Sea, but the further upstream you go the more intense it becomes with very deep pools of water, rushing rapids, and steep canyon walls that make you swim, climb, and sweat with everything you have. The hike goes all the way up to the base of two waterfalls and then one is forced to go back the way you came. It was invigorating and though I was in a bigger group (about 40 people) and it took us considerably longer, I had a great time.
June 13, 2009: I organized a small pub crawl in my neighborhood for a group of friends on this evening. Having lived in Jebel Weibdeh for now 6 months, I have scouted out all the local "dens of iniquity" and have some favorites. Piccadilly Pub, for example sells a relatively cheap bottle of Guinness (4 JD) which is rarity in Jordan. Negresco, located at the bottom of the Select Hotel, has a "buy one, get the second one free" happy hour from 6-8. Jordango , on Paris Circle, has a 50% off happy hour special from 7-9. Thus, the appeal of overlapping happy hours in close proximity was the impetus for the impromptu pub crawl. While we had some scheduling issues, the crawl was well attended and an overall success.
June 14-21, 2009: I went to Egypt. (While I would like to elaborate it would just be too taxing for all involved, so I am going to briefly outline the trip and locales...any more specifics you just have to ask!) A Qasid classmate and fellow fulbrighter, Chrissie couldn't join her friends on a hiking trip through Syria and Lebanon...for what we could say were certain "passport issues", therefore when she called me and asked me to join her on an impromptu trip overland trip to the land of the Pharoahs...I couldn't refuse. We left (much too early (5 AM) in the morning) for Aqaba, Jordan on June 14, and took the ferry across the Red Sea to Nuweiba, Egypt. From Nuweiba we travelled to St. Katherine's Monastery at the base of Mt. Sinai, arriving there at around 8:30 PM, before climbing Mt. Sinai in the pitch dark so that we were able to sleep on top of the mountain and await the sunrise. The sunrise over the Sinai horizon was remarkable at 5 AM the next day. Following sunrise, we descended the mountain and visited the monastery (home of the "burning bush", before learning the only bus to Cairo leaves at the wholly inconvenient time of 6 AM, each morning. Eventually we ended up in Cairo....eventually. We spent the night at Lially Hostel in Midan Talat Harab in the middle of Cairo, but as it turns out we ran into an Egyptian Fulbrighter (that I had met the previous month at the Amman conference) night at a restaurant and he invited us to stay at his lavish and spacious abode in the Zamalak region of Cairo. (11th story penthouse, on the Nile, overlooking the city - we really lucked out...thanks again, Khalil!)Khalil, also had a friend visiting him named Jen and as Khalil was really busy finishing up his studies at American University in Cairo, she joined us in many of our adventures. Major locations visited included: the Royal Mummy room and King Tut exhibits at the Egypt Museum, the Pyramids and Sphinx of Giza. The three of us journeyed a night via train to Luxor, where we visited many more tombs and temples and even took a boat ride to mythical "Banana Island". We then took the night train back to Cairo, and spent one more day there before getting a bus back to Nuweiba and then eventually Aqaba and Amman. Like I said this is a much abridged version of events and every little memory has a story, so if you would like to hear more, please let me know...preferably in person.
June 23-25, 2009: I spent these days traveling around the less popular, though equally interesting sites of Jordan with my friend Keegan and his newly-arrived brother Owen, who will be living in Amman for the whole of the summer. Also joining us on occasion was Becky, Elizabeth's - Keegan's girlfriend - younger sister, who also will be living in Amman for the summer. We visited places like the ruins of Umm al-Jimal, a Roman community constructed from dark basalt stones, the ruins of what is believed to be the town of Sodom (of Biblical infamy) and the prophet Lot's cave, where he was seduced by his daughters (listen... I don't write this stuff), Herod's palace where he was served John the Baptist's head on a plate, the worlds oldest mosaic map found in Madaba, the tomb of the Prophet Moses on Mt. Nebo, etc. We saw quite a few fascinating things nestled away in this ancient and storied landscape.
June 26, 2009: I returned to the Wadi Mujib nature reserve for more...hours more. This Fulbright organized trip (thanks to the efforts of Dennis and Jawwad) was the longest possible trip into the reserve that included an hour of dry, hot, uphill hiking before we made it to any of the water. We then hiked along the water-gorged canyons for a couple hours, took a slight lunch break and waded back into the water until we came to the waterfall again...however, this time it was different. We were on top of the waterfall and had to repel down it to continue on our way to the mouth of the gorge. This trip had all the thrills and the exhaustion of the previous Mujib excursion, but climbing down a waterfall made this experience that much cooler. I plan to do the Wadi Mujib several more times before I leave Jordan...and perhaps some other hiking/climbing as well, because there is so much undisturbed nature in this country.
June 28 - July 3, 2009: I started doing my research! I am establishing a routine that has me going to Emir Hashem Hospital every morning and reporting to the Forensic Medicine department. I want to get a holistic overview of the process of forensic investigation in Jordan, and the doctors at the hospital are really helping me put that picture together. Also during this week, I started taking a traditional Arab dance, the dubka, class. The classes are two hours in length and are a true workout, replete with jumping, kicking, lunging, and clapping. Its a lot of fun, but there are a lot of steps and it can get confusing...this is a common dance frequently seen at weddings here, but I am not sure how it will go over in American weddings. Only one way to tell...right?
July 4, 2009: This was actually the second 4th of July I have spent in Amman, Jordan. The first, in 2006, was spent at a semi-formal party at the US Embassy. This year, I spent the afternoon at my dubka instructor's family farm outside of Amman, eating and swimming. Then I had dubka class, followed by a shower (a social necessity after class) and then a rip-roaring 4th of July party at my friends Elizabeth and Keegan's lovely home. We had fireworks, grilling, drinks, games, and music...it was truly an American party...apparently Keegan read the "Declaration of Independence" (a personal tradition of his) at some point during the night, but I missed that. Happy 233rd Birthday America!!!
So that's the last month in a nutshell. Any questions? I am growing excited for the opportunity to come home in less than 30 days and personally share with all of you some of the stories of my life and experiences here in Amman. I plan to be in Nebraska for the first half of August. It has been a rather rapid-fire first 6 months and I am very much looking forward to see as many of you as I can in the couple weeks I am home.
Thanks for the comments, please keep them coming, and I will be more diligent about responding them. I hope you all continue to enjoy the blog!
Thanks for reading!
Friday, June 5, 2009
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Busy Week!
Hey everyone, as the subject area indicates this is a busy week for me and so I thought I would fill you all in before anymore things pile up.
At Qasid, I am in my final week of instruction and need to start preparing for my final next Wednesday. I have really enjoyed the instruction and the experience of learning Arabic in such an intensive, quality institution. I only wish that I had the time and money to continue study here, so that my language acquisition could continue at this rate. At the end of this term, I finish my Critical Language Enhancement Award grant and in July I officially move into my Fulbright grant. I am very much looking forward to my research, but there is much yet to be worked out concerning the specifics of my work at the hospital.
In other news, last Sunday I met up with Eduardo, Alessandro, Samuela, and Ilaria (my visiting Italian guests) in Jerash...a city known in Jordan for amazing, archeological remnants of the Roman city that existed in that place centuries ago. My professor, Amer, was generous enough to give me a lift to the city about 45 minutes from Amman. Amer is very knowledgeable about Jordan and its highways and bi-ways, so he gave me the scenic route to Jerash, taking me to areas that I am sure many Jordanians have never been. I met up with the Italians at the very spacious, and empty (think "Overlook Hotel" spacious and empty) "Olive Branch Resort" outside of Jerash. We spent the evening swimming in the very cold swimming pool and exploring the backstreets of Jerash, consuming Shwarema and Kunafa in little holes in the wall. We searched in vain for a place to have tea and coffee, but instead we were treated by the owner of a Pharmacy to drink scalding hot tea in a neighboring mobile phone shop...yeah I know, it doesn't really make sense...but it is emblematic of Jordanian hospitality.
The next day we set out for various locales in the north of Jordan from more ancient ruins at Umm Qais (Oom Kie-ss) overlooking the Golan Heights and Lake Tiberias (which some readers will know as the Sea of Galilee, where as Kanye said, "Jesus walked") to hunting lodges and defensive castles in the desert. It was a long and enjoyable day in their rented Toyota and that final evening I took my friends to a traditional, albeit somewhat gimmicky, restaurant named Reem al-Bwadi (Deer of the Valley, roughly translated) where gorged ourselves on traditional Levanteen food and drink. Sadly, the next day (Monday) my friends had to leave and have since safely, and somewhat reluctantly, arrived back in Italy.
The rest of the week has been marked by smaller, but no less important events. Qasid daily, and then Tuesday I went to a book release by a Jordanian woman named Rana Husseini. Ms. Husseini is a Jordanian journalist who has been working tirelessly to end the practice of "honor killings" in Jordan and across the world. Her new book, "Murder in the name of Honor" details some of the more offensive instances of murder that she has personally encountered in Jordan, as well as her efforts and the efforts of people of this nation and worldwide to bring attention and action on this issue. Thus far it is a very engrossing, although at times unsettling, account of her encounters with "honor crimes" in Jordan. I think the book is set to be released in the U.S. at the end of this month (June 26, to be exact). For those who are unfamiliar with the term "honor crime", in the most basic sense it is the instance where a family member (usually a male) murders his sister or family member (usually female) in order to restore the family "honor" after the victim has done something shameful, like kiss a boy or get raped by her neighbor. The reason this is a really disconcerting issue is that the murderer is generally remorseless and given a fairly light sentence...maybe a couple years, at most. Ms. Husseini contends (correctly, in my opinion) that these light sentences are very clearly an indicator of social acceptance and approval of such a brutal practice...a fact that some people have taken advantage of in planning and discussing and enacting the murder of a daughter or sibling, sometimes for personal gain...disturbing to say the least. Anyway, I don't need to rewrite the book here as it is worth a read.
After the book release I went to a friend's birthday party and had one of the best burgers in Amman...if you are ever near Amigos Pub near 1st Circle, the Swiss Cheeseburger is very tasty and the steak sandwich is apparently great as well!
On Wednesday night, I went back to Reem Al-Bwadi Restaurant as Fulbright sponsored a dinner for some of the grantees who will be completing their grants and leaving soon. It was another evening of feasting and revelry with the Fulbright group...can you believe I hadn't met everyone before that night? Not sure that I still have...
Yesterday, I watched President Obama address the Arab/Muslim world from Cairo and I enjoyed his message and his eloquence in speaking...despite your opinions about him, you have to admit he is an excellent orator. The people here seem to appreciate his use of the Qu'ran and his straightforward approach, but say they have heard beautiful words before and want to see some action on the ground, especially concerning Palestine. So I suppose we'll have to see how policy changes and gets shaped in the coming months, but I feel encouraged by the openness and willingness to engage the rest of the world by this administration. What's the response like back in the States and around the world? (Come on guys...someday has got an opinion...let me hear it!)
Last night was (Thursday) the long awaited and much mentioned wedding of Hatem (Alice's son). It was a festive affair and everything was beautifully done. The service marked the first time I had been to a Greek Orthodox ceremony. The whole wedding ceremony lasted about half an hour and was conducted by a bearded priest with a beautiful, chanting tenor voice...I had no clue what he was saying, but it was very cool, nonetheless. The reception was held in the banquet room of the Days Inn Hotel, which is by far the nicest Days Inn I have ever seen. The food and drink were plentiful, the music was loud, and the atmosphere was electric. They have a tradition where the bride enters the room with a large candle in each hand and dances around and is followed by all the single women carrying smaller candles. At the end of the song, the groom comes and takes the candles from his bride and extinguishes them out to symbolize that she is no longer single. I particularly like that tradition and of course, the cutting of cake with a sword...that's just cool. Today (Friday) was a day of rest and will involve some studying as the test is approaching quickly.
Tomorrow evening, I have another wedding as Veronica, my former classmate at Qasid, is getting married to a Jordanian man. I expect this wedding and reception to be markedly different from the one last night as I believe this will be an Islamic ceremony...I'll blog about it and let you know if my suspicions are correct.
As always thanks for reading, and please give me some feedback on how you are liking the blog and what I can do to make it a more enjoyable experience for you.
Always,
CtO
At Qasid, I am in my final week of instruction and need to start preparing for my final next Wednesday. I have really enjoyed the instruction and the experience of learning Arabic in such an intensive, quality institution. I only wish that I had the time and money to continue study here, so that my language acquisition could continue at this rate. At the end of this term, I finish my Critical Language Enhancement Award grant and in July I officially move into my Fulbright grant. I am very much looking forward to my research, but there is much yet to be worked out concerning the specifics of my work at the hospital.
In other news, last Sunday I met up with Eduardo, Alessandro, Samuela, and Ilaria (my visiting Italian guests) in Jerash...a city known in Jordan for amazing, archeological remnants of the Roman city that existed in that place centuries ago. My professor, Amer, was generous enough to give me a lift to the city about 45 minutes from Amman. Amer is very knowledgeable about Jordan and its highways and bi-ways, so he gave me the scenic route to Jerash, taking me to areas that I am sure many Jordanians have never been. I met up with the Italians at the very spacious, and empty (think "Overlook Hotel" spacious and empty) "Olive Branch Resort" outside of Jerash. We spent the evening swimming in the very cold swimming pool and exploring the backstreets of Jerash, consuming Shwarema and Kunafa in little holes in the wall. We searched in vain for a place to have tea and coffee, but instead we were treated by the owner of a Pharmacy to drink scalding hot tea in a neighboring mobile phone shop...yeah I know, it doesn't really make sense...but it is emblematic of Jordanian hospitality.
The next day we set out for various locales in the north of Jordan from more ancient ruins at Umm Qais (Oom Kie-ss) overlooking the Golan Heights and Lake Tiberias (which some readers will know as the Sea of Galilee, where as Kanye said, "Jesus walked") to hunting lodges and defensive castles in the desert. It was a long and enjoyable day in their rented Toyota and that final evening I took my friends to a traditional, albeit somewhat gimmicky, restaurant named Reem al-Bwadi (Deer of the Valley, roughly translated) where gorged ourselves on traditional Levanteen food and drink. Sadly, the next day (Monday) my friends had to leave and have since safely, and somewhat reluctantly, arrived back in Italy.
The rest of the week has been marked by smaller, but no less important events. Qasid daily, and then Tuesday I went to a book release by a Jordanian woman named Rana Husseini. Ms. Husseini is a Jordanian journalist who has been working tirelessly to end the practice of "honor killings" in Jordan and across the world. Her new book, "Murder in the name of Honor" details some of the more offensive instances of murder that she has personally encountered in Jordan, as well as her efforts and the efforts of people of this nation and worldwide to bring attention and action on this issue. Thus far it is a very engrossing, although at times unsettling, account of her encounters with "honor crimes" in Jordan. I think the book is set to be released in the U.S. at the end of this month (June 26, to be exact). For those who are unfamiliar with the term "honor crime", in the most basic sense it is the instance where a family member (usually a male) murders his sister or family member (usually female) in order to restore the family "honor" after the victim has done something shameful, like kiss a boy or get raped by her neighbor. The reason this is a really disconcerting issue is that the murderer is generally remorseless and given a fairly light sentence...maybe a couple years, at most. Ms. Husseini contends (correctly, in my opinion) that these light sentences are very clearly an indicator of social acceptance and approval of such a brutal practice...a fact that some people have taken advantage of in planning and discussing and enacting the murder of a daughter or sibling, sometimes for personal gain...disturbing to say the least. Anyway, I don't need to rewrite the book here as it is worth a read.
After the book release I went to a friend's birthday party and had one of the best burgers in Amman...if you are ever near Amigos Pub near 1st Circle, the Swiss Cheeseburger is very tasty and the steak sandwich is apparently great as well!
On Wednesday night, I went back to Reem Al-Bwadi Restaurant as Fulbright sponsored a dinner for some of the grantees who will be completing their grants and leaving soon. It was another evening of feasting and revelry with the Fulbright group...can you believe I hadn't met everyone before that night? Not sure that I still have...
Yesterday, I watched President Obama address the Arab/Muslim world from Cairo and I enjoyed his message and his eloquence in speaking...despite your opinions about him, you have to admit he is an excellent orator. The people here seem to appreciate his use of the Qu'ran and his straightforward approach, but say they have heard beautiful words before and want to see some action on the ground, especially concerning Palestine. So I suppose we'll have to see how policy changes and gets shaped in the coming months, but I feel encouraged by the openness and willingness to engage the rest of the world by this administration. What's the response like back in the States and around the world? (Come on guys...someday has got an opinion...let me hear it!)
Last night was (Thursday) the long awaited and much mentioned wedding of Hatem (Alice's son). It was a festive affair and everything was beautifully done. The service marked the first time I had been to a Greek Orthodox ceremony. The whole wedding ceremony lasted about half an hour and was conducted by a bearded priest with a beautiful, chanting tenor voice...I had no clue what he was saying, but it was very cool, nonetheless. The reception was held in the banquet room of the Days Inn Hotel, which is by far the nicest Days Inn I have ever seen. The food and drink were plentiful, the music was loud, and the atmosphere was electric. They have a tradition where the bride enters the room with a large candle in each hand and dances around and is followed by all the single women carrying smaller candles. At the end of the song, the groom comes and takes the candles from his bride and extinguishes them out to symbolize that she is no longer single. I particularly like that tradition and of course, the cutting of cake with a sword...that's just cool. Today (Friday) was a day of rest and will involve some studying as the test is approaching quickly.
Tomorrow evening, I have another wedding as Veronica, my former classmate at Qasid, is getting married to a Jordanian man. I expect this wedding and reception to be markedly different from the one last night as I believe this will be an Islamic ceremony...I'll blog about it and let you know if my suspicions are correct.
As always thanks for reading, and please give me some feedback on how you are liking the blog and what I can do to make it a more enjoyable experience for you.
Always,
CtO
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